Used Truck Buying Guide

A good used truck can do the same work as a new one for a fraction of the price. A bad one can cost more than it saved within months. The difference is almost always in the checks done before the money changes hands. This guide covers what to look for, the problems that come up most often, and the paperwork that protects you.

Start with the history, not the paint

A clean, detailed truck tells you the seller has washed it. A folder of service records tells you how it was looked after. Ask for:

• Service records with dates, odometer or hour readings and what was done. Regular oil changes at the manufacturer's interval matter more than anything cosmetic.
• Major repair invoices: engine rebuilds, gearbox or diff work, clutch replacements, injector or turbo replacement. A recent rebuild done properly can be a plus.
• How it was used. A highway linehaul truck with high kilometres can be in better shape than a low-kilometre truck that spent its life on a quarry or in stop-start city work. Engine hours often say more than kilometres.
• Why it is being sold. Fleet replacement, a business changing direction or a retiring owner-driver are common and reasonable answers.

Common problems in used trucks

• Engine wear: blow-by from the breather, blue or heavy black smoke, oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, low oil pressure when hot.
• Emissions system faults on newer trucks: diesel particulate filter (DPF) and AdBlue (SCR) systems are expensive to repair. Ask when the DPF was last cleaned and check for warning lights and frequent forced regenerations.
• Driveline: clutch slip, notchy or jumping gears, whining diffs, worn uni joints and centre bearings.
• Chassis damage: cracks around spring hangers, crossmembers and the fifth wheel, signs of welding or straightening, and rust where bodies and chassis meet.
• Suspension and steering: leaking airbags, tired springs, worn kingpins and bushes, uneven tyre wear that points to alignment problems.
• Body and hydraulics: on tippers, cranes and hook-lifts, check rams, hoses, PTO and pump for leaks, and the body floor for wear and cracks.

Our step-by-step guide on how to inspect a used truck shows how to check each of these.

Do a PPSR check, every time

A search on the Personal Property Securities Register (ppsr.gov.au) costs a few dollars and takes minutes. Search the VIN (or chassis number) and check the certificate for:

• Security interests: money owed to a lender. If it is not paid out when you buy, the lender may be able to take the truck from you, even though you paid the seller in full.
• Stolen records reported by police.
• Written-off records recorded by insurers or state registries.

Check that the VIN on the certificate matches the plate on the truck and the registration papers. If finance is owing, arrange for it to be paid out to the lender at settlement and get written confirmation that the security interest has been removed.

Roadworthy and inspection rules by state

There is no single national rule for selling a used truck. As a general guide (always confirm with the registration authority before you buy, because requirements change and differ for light and heavy vehicles):

State or territory	What usually applies when a registered truck changes hands
Victoria	A roadworthy certificate (RWC) from a licensed vehicle tester is needed to transfer registration of a used vehicle, including heavy vehicles. Check: VicRoads.
Queensland	Light vehicles need a safety certificate to be sold while registered. Heavy vehicles over 4.5 t GVM generally need a certificate of inspection from an approved inspection station or TMR. Check: Department of Transport and Main Roads (TMR).
New South Wales	No roadworthy certificate is needed to transfer registration, but heavy vehicles generally need a safety inspection at registration renewal. Check: Transport for NSW and Service NSW.
Western Australia	No roadworthy certificate on transfer; an inspection is needed to license an unregistered, interstate or modified vehicle. Check: Department of Transport WA.
South Australia	No roadworthy certificate on transfer; inspections apply to unregistered, interstate and written-off vehicles and some heavy vehicles. Check: Service SA.
Tasmania	No roadworthy certificate on transfer; an inspection is needed to register an unregistered or interstate vehicle. Check: Transport Tasmania.
Northern Territory	Inspections apply at registration for vehicles over a certain age and for many heavy vehicles. Check: NT Motor Vehicle Registry.

Even where no certificate is legally required, an independent pre-purchase inspection by a heavy vehicle mechanic is money well spent. Heavy vehicles in every state and territory except Western Australia and the Northern Territory also operate under the Heavy Vehicle National Law, administered by the National Heavy Vehicle Regulator (nhvr.gov.au).

Buying from a dealer or a private seller

Buying from a dealer generally gives you the protection of the consumer guarantees under the Australian Consumer Law, and in some states a statutory warranty depending on the vehicle's age, kilometres and use. Buying privately is usually cheaper, but the consumer guarantees do not apply to private sales in the same way, so your own checks matter even more. Either way, get a written receipt with the VIN, price, date and both parties' details.

Avoid the common scams

• A price well below the market, with a story about why it must sell quickly.
• A seller who cannot meet, or says the truck is in storage or "with a shipping company".
• Requests for a deposit before you have seen the truck, or for payment by gift card, cryptocurrency or overseas transfer.
• Registration papers in a different name with no good explanation.

If a listing on Aus Truck Market looks wrong, tell us.

Ready to look? Browse used trucks for sale, and take our truck buying checklist with you.